Rita’s blog

Before we returned home, hoping for another near future
trip, adding many more towns, ruins, landscapes, carpet warehouses, museums such as Aya Sofya to our experience, Sis and I had shipped many of the  most beautiful carpets and kilims we had seen to Jackson, Mississippi, and I had begun drawing pads of quick sketches, some taking half a day or more, of  Sofya,the  former Christian Church turned Mosque, then museum –said to surpass even the Taj in architecture and art.   What comes first to my mind are the many miles of peach orchards at the feet of many rocky mountains near Izmir, an hour and 45 minutes from Istanbul by air.  The vegetation on the brown and gray mountains looked like scraps of multicolored carpets scattered about on crags and rolling hills.  We stopped in a small city to wait for an airport bus to take us home in Sultanamet to bed and breakfast at the Acropol and there, while Sis looked for olive jars and scarves, I dropped into a very old ruin of a mosque still in use.  Only a cat greeted us, but what surroundings this cat enjoyed as rain dripped into puddles, deep enough for minnows to swim in, on marble steps.  This was the climax of the entire journey and the first rain we saw.   From pillar to post the marble floor of this vast interior was laid ear to ear with hundreds of all sizes of prayer rugs of various design, color, and mostly wool or silk.  There was nobody present in an adjoining roofless outdoor patio either, but remnants of Greek columns, boulders of granite the size of  a large trunk, all chiseled with text and labels from history by Greeks or Romans, lay about on the grass and against an enclosing wall.  What a treat.  If we had known the language we could have guessed at what had been going on at the time these pieces of architecture were either rocked by earthquake or war or flood or had been dug out of the grounds where an older previous church or mosque had stood.  We had seen  the BCE remains of the Temple of Apollo at Didim and  the still standing  25,000 seat amphitheater at Ephesus, shaken up and damaged by an earthquake–  but still remaining–  much of the original  semicircular seating area. The four story stage  was still there big and bulky as an small office building, awaiting restoration so that the speaker or singer could be heard in every seat– except, of course, the demolished semicircular arc ends which lay scattered about for over a mile, awaiting catalogue-ing and classification by architects and engineers, historians and archivists.  We had been driven in a smaller van for two days in the Kusadasi-(is it that or Kusahdahsiy when we were corrected wit pronunciation.  I like English koosadaysi.

One Response to “Rita’s blog”

  1. laritasmith Says:

    as well as Protestant Greek and Catholic.
    Our guide, named for the Attila who
    helped to sack Rome, made it a memorable trip
    up a ramp of boulders polished by centuries of leather shoes of communicants. There was a
    marble olive jar of perhaps 15 feet in diameter.
    However, the day we had saved for our dreams
    did not materialize. We did not know that this gem of architecture does not “seem to float” without
    sunlight streaming in through the windows in the
    dome. We had reserved our only rainy day for the
    interior, using the sunny days for shopping for
    carpets and enjoying the travellers from the world over at the German fountain facing. We won’t make this mistake on our next trip. We will grab the first
    sunny day to get that floating feeling and to see from another interior section the dazzling light coming through a section of the alabaster window panes at
    entrance. The gigantic stone sixteen centuries-old
    sprawling mother of all cathedrals and mosques
    built from six to nine centuries before St. Peter’s in Rome– we were told by our very gracious host. It has been constantly rebuilt, altered, and redesigned
    throughout history, the object of love and devotion of many architects through centuries, after earthquake, fire, and flood. It is expected to last another 1500 years, supported by a tall modern steel grid under the dome. that is, if the Turkish government continues to spend vast amounts of money on its growth. There is nothing sedentary or motionless about this giant bilt of stone, metal, glass, and spirit. It is dynamic in every sense, moving and changing, so far, with the centuries. May this imperturbable number of Turkish as well as artisans from everywhere protect the memory of all who have resisted its destruction. Thanks to the builders who brought from as far as Egypt the columns of marble and granite and those who added the mosaicos, tile masons, and artists creating the 20 foot images of Christian fathers and mothers, and the decorative and primitive muslim painters making stately the weighty arches under the dome. My own mamma used to gasp, as bedtime neared and she was still washing or ironing, gardening or cooking greens and cornbread, or milking or sewing, “I’ve been working like a Turk today!” Then, her
    words were only a handmedown, but now that I have seen how relentless the Turkish people have
    worked by their own labor to keep this monument alive, while cooperating with expert foreign and immigrant help, standing for hours on elevated planks, using dentist’s picks, cotton swabs, and
    other tools such as toothpicks to slowly uncover the 20-or- more foot glittering mosaics which have been covered over for centuries (and most
    probably saved as a result). As the gold and silver
    Christ, Justinian, Mary and John look down at visitors and Alexander and Zoe are pictured as they looked over the stone balconies where Vikings visited in the ninth century, I have to give the Turkish government and its people credit for “working like Turks” and for spending their own money and that of donors like UNESCO to invest in a culture which has a history.
    While only the shoulders and heads of some of the
    characters from Bible as well as Koran emerge slowly from the past’s putty. The art experts from abroad and the tourist groups sometimes hurry in and out and sometimes have no book nor guide.
    I just think of Mamma and her nine kids, who used these words “I have been working like a Turk
    today” and which were handed down to her by
    Grandmothers and Grandfathers. I thank the powers
    that be that my Scotch and American Indian, German. and Scandiavian and other ancestors at least knew about the Turks and their work habits and their
    backbreaking chores of bringing from mountains as far away as Egypt and on barges some of the entire columns from Egypt’s own quarries and fallen monuments for use in Sofya. The word in Greek
    means Holy Wisdom, and in Christianity Saint Sophia might have at one time been the name of another church, not AyaSofya. Thank you to Richard Nelson
    Mixon and his family of historians for opening up this blog space for me, because if it were not for help I got from their mom and pop computer software company in Scottsdale, AZ, I would not have known how to open it up.

    Watch for next blog for trip home, an oversold flight, and a two day wait after we sat and lay on benches in Ataturk Airport. Standing there with our
    with return tickets, passports, and confirmation papers, plus luggages of carpets, we were not on the manifest of AirItalia, with whom we had travelled to Istanbul from Rome with a wonderful stewardess and the finest butter cookie snack imaginable. For an hour or so we had exchanged family history stories off and on. She maintained apartments in Milan and Rome. We could not have asked for a more roomy and more comfortable situation.
    Thank you for listening. Any comments on
    this blog will be welcomed.

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